http://www.sweetandsound.co.uk/2012/02/blow-presents-live-aw12/
In a warehouse off a side street in Bethnal Green, a
treasure trove of sensual delights awaits. A darkened room centred by a disco
ball and cosy sofas dotted with potted plants, lamps, art, and intriguing
exhibition stands to the sound of Fresh Flower Pressed’s 90’s hip-hop and all
wrapped up in a never ending ribbon of mirror. The event had a buzz of energy
and raw creativity with gems shining out of the darkness. Tonight Sweet and
Sound entered the heady world of BLOW and its freshest designers at the ‘BLOW
Presents Live A/W12’.
The ‘ribbon’, an installation provided by [Y/N] Studio, led
visitors around the edge of the studio guiding them on a joyous route of
discovery and inspiration. It challenged the space by manipulating and
exaggerating garments and highlighting details, providing new ways of looking.
On entering the room you are drawn to artwork by Claire
Barrow and onto Zyanya Keizer’s display space. The designer in one of her
creations echoes her mannequin laden in a black body con dress that is imbued
with rich and heavy textures of sequins and metalwork built up to create
organic, skeletal form; inspired by sea monsters, that pull you into their
depth.
Onto Eleanor Amoroso. A tall figure in black stands on a
stool surrounded by cascading black dresses, hung from the ceiling. The
presentation is almost intimidating; tough and dark but with an undeniable
feminine elegance. Her surprising use of fabrics, such as feathers in dresses
that are uniquely cut are made more impressive by the fact that Eleanor works
completely by hand.
Beneath the glitter of the disco ball the light bounces off
of the mirror and around the room capturing the bright, sweetie wrapper allure
of Jane Bowler’s work. Three models with chalky faces and sleek wet hair stand
on plinths of varying height, rotating their poses. A contrasting blast of
shocking florescent colour, fringing, metallics and fabrics that include
plastics, leathers and crochet displayed a punchy mixture of texture and
technique that is fearless and playful yet sophisticated.
A group of mannequin heads raised above a floor of scattered
dried roses displayed the avant-garde headwear pieces by Aurora Ozma. The
designer, dressed in a stunning 50’s skirt and glitter heels with a perfect
‘Sandy-esque’ ponytail, slid between the mannequins, adjusting her work. Aurora
employs an engaging choice of materials such as fur and synthetic hair against
sleek latex embellished with rhinestones, all in a vintage palette of
monochrome and beiges. Her designs hark to bygone eras yet cleverly appear like
something you have never seen before, giving Aurora’s work a surrealist
quality.
A model dressed in cool minimalist black with a cap stands
on a stage in front of video projections rolling the designer’s fashion films.
Claudia Ligari’s designs are fresh and neat because they are minimalist and
cleanly tailored however light fabrics and perfectly crafted loose fits give
her designs a sensual feel. Claudia’s garments have an androgynous quality;
they are geometric with structured shoulders in fabrics that are used uniquely,
thus proving the diversity of wear on the female form.
In the corner a circus of shape, colour and texture make up
the topsy-turvey, madness of Maryme-JimmyPaul. It is hard to determine whether
this is art, sculpture or fashion as the designs transcend all three
disciplines. The designs are mad cap and fun yet have an unsettling feeling
about them as enlarged shapes and jagged edges inspire awkwardness and their
robustness is almost amour like. The designs are inspired by teenage
disharmony, horror movies and fictitious monsters translated into
architectural, geometric shapes.
